Beyond the towering Annapurna and Dhaulagiri masses, hidden in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, lies a landscape so otherworldly it feels like stepping onto another planet. The Upper Mustang Trek takes adventurers into one of the world’s most isolated and culturally preserved regions—a high-altitude desert where ancient Tibetan Buddhist traditions remain virtually unchanged, and where the last vestiges of a medieval kingdom still echo through wind-carved canyons and centuries-old monasteries.
Often called the “Last Forbidden Kingdom,” Upper Mustang is a remote and culturally rich region known for its Tibetan-influenced culture, stunning landscapes, and ancient monasteries. This is not just another Himalayan trek—it’s a journey through time to a place where modernity has barely touched the lives of its inhabitants, and where the landscape itself seems sculpted by the hands of ancient gods.
A Kingdom Frozen in Time
Upper Mustang was once an independent kingdom, although closely tied by language and culture to Tibet. From the 15th to the 17th century, its strategic location granted Mustang control over the trade between the Himalayas and India, making it prosperous and powerful. The warrior Ame Pal founded this Buddhist kingdom in 1380 and oversaw the building of Lo Manthang, a walled city that has changed little in appearance since that time.
While the kingdom was annexed by Nepal at the end of the 18th century and the monarchy officially ceased on October 7, 2008, by order of the Government of Nepal, the region’s cultural identity remains remarkably intact. Upper Mustang was closed to outsiders until 1992, and this prolonged isolation has preserved traditions, architecture, and ways of life that have vanished elsewhere in the Himalayas.
The last king, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista (1930–2016), traced his lineage directly back to Ame Pal, spanning over 25 generations of unbroken royal succession. Today, visitors to Lo Manthang can still see the four-story whitewashed palace where the royal family once resided, standing as a testament to this extraordinary historical continuity.
The Landscape of Dreams and Dust
The Upper Mustang region presents a landscape unlike any other in Nepal. Due to its location in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Mountain Ranges, Mustang receives very little rainfall, creating a stark, desert-like environment that contrasts dramatically with the lush green valleys found elsewhere in the country.
The region features gorges of glittering rainbow rock in red, white, black, yellow, and even blue—like the Grand Canyon with tins of paint thrown over it. These multicolored cliffs and eroded rock formations create a surreal, almost lunar landscape where erosion has carved the earth into fantastic shapes. Wind-sculpted pillars, deep canyons, and layered sedimentary rocks tell the geological story of ancient seabeds thrust skyward by tectonic forces millions of years ago.
Against this barren backdrop, small villages appear as green oases where ingenious irrigation systems have transformed patches of desert into productive agricultural land. Barley, buckwheat, potatoes, and mustard grow in carefully tended terraced fields, their vibrant green standing in stark contrast to the ochre and gray mountains surrounding them.
The mighty Kali Gandaki River, one of the deepest gorges in the world, bisects the region, its waters having carved through the Himalayas for millennia. The riverbed is famous for shaligrams—fossilized ammonites believed by Hindus to be sacred manifestations of Lord Vishnu—which pilgrims collect as spiritual treasures.
The Walled City of Lo Manthang
The ultimate destination of most Upper Mustang treks is Lo Manthang, the walled city built in 1380 AD by King Ame Pal. In the Tibetan language, Lo Manthang refers to the walled city, and the place is surrounded by walls that have protected it for over six centuries.
The wall is 2,472 feet long and 26 feet high, with a series of 14 towers along its periphery that rise 40 feet high and are 6 feet wide at the top. During the reign of the Mustangi kings, armed guards stationed in these towers defended the town from bandits and enemies. The city has only one entrance—a massive wooden gate on the eastern side—and tradition dictates that everyone except the king must dismount their horses when passing through, paying respect to the protective deities enshrined there.
Inside the walls, the city remains remarkably unchanged. Narrow alleyways wind between whitewashed mud-brick buildings, their flat roofs typical of Tibetan architecture. The area is inhabited by an estimated 900 Lhoba people, whose daily lives revolve around agriculture, animal husbandry, and increasingly, tourism.
Lo Manthang is home to three major monasteries—Jampa Gompa (also known as Jampa Lhakhang), Thubchen Gompa, and Chode Gompa—each containing priceless Buddhist murals, thangka paintings, and ancient statues that have undergone expert restoration. These gompas serve as both spiritual centers and repositories of Tibetan Buddhist art and culture that has been lost or destroyed in Tibet itself.
A Cultural Experience Beyond Compare
What sets the Upper Mustang Trek apart from other Himalayan journeys is its emphasis on cultural immersion over peak-bagging. Trekking in Upper Mustang is less about awe-inspiring scenery and more of a cultural experience, offering insights into a way of life that has persisted for centuries.
Mustang is rich in Buddhist culture, similar to the area of the Tibet Autonomous Region, but many argue that Upper Mustang preserves Tibetan culture more authentically than modern Tibet. Monasteries filled with butter lamps, prayer wheels spinning in mountain breezes, and monks performing ancient rituals create an atmosphere of timeless spirituality.
The Loba people, the primary inhabitants of Upper Mustang, maintain traditions that have disappeared elsewhere. Polyandry remains practiced in some families, where a woman marries all the brothers to prevent fragmentation of family property. The practice of sky burial, traditional Tibetan cuisine, and the wearing of distinctive regional dress all continue as living traditions rather than tourist performances.
Throughout the trek, you’ll pass countless chortens, mani walls inscribed with Buddhist prayers, and colorful prayer flags fluttering against the blue sky. Each village has its gompa where monks maintain daily rituals, and locals make offerings and spin prayer wheels as part of their routine.
The Sacred Tiji Festival
The biggest festival of the Upper Mustang region is the Tiji Festival, which normally falls in May each year. This three-day celebration is Upper Mustang’s most important cultural event and draws visitors from around the world.
Tiji, meaning “Prayer for World Peace,” commemorates the victory of Buddha’s incarnation. The festival tells the story of Dorje Jono, a deity who battled his demon father to save the Kingdom of Mustang from destruction. Monks from Chode Monastery perform elaborate masked dances, wearing intricate costumes and playing traditional instruments as they enact this ancient myth.
Witnessing the Tiji Festival in Lo Manthang’s main square, surrounded by whitewashed walls and watched by locals in traditional dress, offers one of the most authentic cultural experiences available in the Himalayas. Many trekkers specifically time their journey to coincide with this extraordinary celebration.
Ancient Mysteries in Cliff Caves
One of Upper Mustang’s most intriguing features is the thousands of man-made caves carved into sheer cliff faces throughout the region. The Chungsi Caves are formed by strong winds that chiseled away loose sediments from the rock face over millennia, though many were clearly expanded and modified by human hands.
About twelve caves discovered near Lo Manthang contain ancient Buddhist paintings and are set in sheer cliffs at 14,000 feet, with silver and gold paintings in Tibetan script dating to the 13th century. Archaeologists and mountaineers continue to discover new caves, some of which served as meditation chambers for Buddhist practitioners, while others functioned as storage facilities or even living spaces.
The purpose and construction methods of many caves remain mysterious. How ancient people created dwellings in seemingly inaccessible locations on vertical cliff faces continues to puzzle researchers. Some theories suggest the landscape was different when the caves were created, or that elaborate scaffolding systems were employed. Whatever the explanation, these cliff dwellings add an element of mystery to an already enigmatic landscape.
Trekking Details and Practical Information
Route and Duration: The Upper Mustang trek typically takes a minimum of 10 days, with some routes extending to 16 days and a 12-day trek being average. The journey usually begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara, followed by another flight to Jomsom, where the trek begins.
From Jomsom, trekkers follow the Kali Gandaki River northward to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. Kagbeni is an oasis of green patchwork fields amidst rocky, arid mountains, with Nilgiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient citadel town provides the first taste of what lies ahead, with its narrow alleyways, tunnels, and the massive 800-year-old Sakya gompa.
Beyond Kagbeni, the trail continues through villages like Chele, Samar, Ghami, and Tsarang before reaching Lo Manthang. The highest point for the Upper Mustang trek is 3,820 meters at Lo Manthang, making it one of the lower-altitude treks in the Himalayan region.
Difficulty Level: While there is no technical climbing involved and the trek is considered one of the easier routes in the region, the combination of altitude, dry air, and strong winds can bring discomfort. Some days involve up to 22 kilometers of walking, demanding stamina and determination. The trek is suitable for people with moderate fitness levels, though proper acclimatization remains important.
Best Time to Trek: Unlike most of Nepal, Upper Mustang is in the Himalayan rain shadow, making the best time to trek from May to October—the monsoon season. While other regions of Nepal experience heavy rains during these months, Upper Mustang remains relatively dry, making it an ideal monsoon trekking destination. Spring and autumn also offer excellent conditions, with autumn providing the clearest mountain views.
Special Permits and Regulations: Upper Mustang is a restricted area requiring a special permit costing US $500 per person for 10 days, with additional days charged at US $50 per day. Solo trekking is prohibited; trekkers must be in groups of at least two and on an organized trek operated by a licensed trekking agency. You’ll also need TIMS and ACAP permits.
Accommodation and Facilities: Teahouses and homestays are available throughout the trekking route, offering basic but comfortable accommodation. The lodges generally have showers powered by gas and mostly use sit-down flush toilets. Food is a mixture of Nepali, Tibetan, and Western cuisine, with dal bhat being the standard filling meal.
The Road Controversy
The construction of a road from Jomsom into Upper Mustang has brought both positive and negative implications. On one hand, it has improved connectivity and simplified transportation of goods and medical supplies. On the other, it has fundamentally changed the trekking experience, with some sections following dusty roads shared with occasional vehicles.
Many experienced trekkers now recommend doing a loop—driving up the western side to Lo Manthang and then trekking down the higher, wilder, and far more remote eastern side. This approach allows trekkers to experience the best of both worlds: quick access to Lo Manthang followed by a more authentic walking experience on the return journey.
Despite the road, the essential character of Upper Mustang remains intact. The remote villages, ancient monasteries, and dramatic landscape continue to offer an experience unlike any other in Nepal. The relative difficulty in reaching the region and the high permit cost ensure it remains far less crowded than popular destinations like Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit.
A Journey of the Spirit
Trekking in Upper Mustang is as much an interior journey as a physical one. The stark landscape strips away distractions, creating space for contemplation and connection. The deep spirituality that permeates every village, the silence broken only by wind and prayer flags, and the warm hospitality of people living in one of Earth’s harshest environments all combine to create a profound experience.
This is a place where prayer wheels spin without electricity, where monasteries maintain centuries-old rituals, and where the rhythm of life follows seasons and spiritual calendars rather than digital clocks. In an increasingly homogenized world, Upper Mustang stands as a reminder of how diverse human cultures can be, and how traditions can persist even in the most challenging environments.
Conclusion
The Upper Mustang Trek offers something increasingly rare in modern travel—the opportunity to step completely outside the familiar and enter a world that operates according to different principles, where ancient wisdom guides daily life and where the landscape itself seems to hold secrets from a distant past. This is not a trek for those seeking Instagram-perfect mountain vistas or luxurious mountain lodges. Instead, it rewards those who come with open minds and hearts, ready to embrace a culture and landscape that demands respect and contemplation.
From the moment you pass through the gateway at Kagbeni and enter the restricted zone, you become part of a story that stretches back thousands of years. You walk paths trodden by traders carrying Tibetan salt to Indian markets, follow in the footsteps of Buddhist pilgrims seeking enlightenment in cliff-side caves, and share meals with people whose ancestors defended these valleys from invaders and natural disasters for generations.
The red-and-white cliffs, the walled city of Lo Manthang, the ancient gompas filled with priceless art, the mysterious cliff dwellings, and above all, the dignified and warm-hearted Loba people—all combine to create an experience that transcends ordinary trekking. This is a journey that touches something deeper, that connects you to human resilience, spiritual dedication, and the enduring power of culture to give meaning to life in even the most austere environments.
As you return from Upper Mustang, dusty and wind-worn but enriched beyond measure, you’ll carry with you not just photographs and memories, but a different understanding of what it means to live deliberately, to honor tradition, and to find beauty in simplicity. The Last Forbidden Kingdom may have opened its gates, but it still guards the most precious treasures—its culture, its spirituality, and its timeless way of life—for those wise enough to recognize and respect them.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Why is Upper Mustang called the “Forbidden Kingdom”? A: Upper Mustang was completely closed to foreigners until 1992, earning it the nickname “Forbidden Kingdom.” This isolation helped preserve its unique Tibetan Buddhist culture and medieval architecture virtually unchanged for centuries. While it’s now open to tourists, it remains a restricted area requiring special permits.
Q: How much does the Upper Mustang Trek cost? A: The special restricted area permit alone costs USD $500 per person for 10 days, with an additional $50 per day beyond that. Total trek costs typically range from $1,500 to $2,500 per person depending on services included, accommodation standards, and whether you join a group or private trek. This doesn’t include international flights or expenses in Kathmandu.
Q: Can I trek Upper Mustang independently? A: No, solo independent trekking is not allowed in Upper Mustang. You must trek with a licensed guide through a registered trekking agency, and groups must consist of at least two trekkers. This regulation helps preserve the region’s culture and ensures trekker safety.
Q: What is the best time of year to trek Upper Mustang? A: Unlike most of Nepal, Upper Mustang is best visited during May to October (including the monsoon season) because it lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas and receives minimal rainfall. The Tiji Festival in May is particularly popular. Autumn (September-November) and spring (March-May) also offer excellent conditions.
Q: How difficult is the Upper Mustang Trek? A: The trek is rated as moderate. While the maximum altitude is relatively low at 3,820 meters and no technical climbing is required, the combination of altitude, dry desert conditions, strong winds, and some long walking days (up to 22 kilometers) can be challenging. Anyone with good basic fitness and some trekking experience should be able to complete it.
Q: How do I get to the Upper Mustang trekking starting point? A: Most trekkers fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara, then take another flight to Jomsom, where the trek begins. Alternatively, you can drive from Pokhara to Jomsom (a very long, rough journey) or all the way to Lo Manthang by 4WD vehicle, though the road is unpaved and bumpy.
Q: What makes Upper Mustang different from other Nepal treks? A: Upper Mustang focuses primarily on cultural immersion rather than mountain scenery. It offers the most authentic preserved Tibetan Buddhist culture in the world, a unique high-altitude desert landscape, ancient cave dwellings, medieval walled cities, and far fewer crowds than popular routes like Everest or Annapurna.
Q: What type of accommodation is available on the Upper Mustang Trek? A: Teahouses and homestays operated by local families are available throughout the route, offering basic but comfortable twin-sharing rooms. Most lodges have gas-powered showers and sit-down toilets, though facilities are simpler than in more developed trekking regions. Staying in local guesthouses provides authentic cultural experiences.
Q: Do I need altitude sickness medication for Upper Mustang? A: While the maximum altitude is relatively low compared to other Himalayan treks, some people may still experience mild altitude symptoms. Consulting with a doctor about preventive medication is wise. The gradual ascent and moderate maximum elevation reduce serious altitude sickness risks compared to higher treks.
Q: What cultural etiquette should I observe in Upper Mustang? A: Show respect at monasteries by asking permission before photographing, walking clockwise around stupas and chortens, removing shoes before entering temples, dressing modestly, and not pointing your feet toward Buddhist images. When passing through Lo Manthang’s gate, dismount from any horse out of respect for local tradition. Always ask permission before photographing local people.
